Reference Guides
Bagworms
Bagworms are tiny insects that typically infest evergreens, but can also be found on deciduous plants. They are most obvious in their bag stage on leafless winter trees, but damage isn’t always apparent until the infestation is heavy. It’s important to time treatments based on their life cycle.
Life Cycle
Bagworms spend the winter as eggs in their cocoons. They hatch in May or early June, crawl out of their sacks and start feeding on their host plant. This continues for 8-10 weeks until August, when they begin to construct a sack out of silk and bits of their host plant’s foliage. Once the sacks are complete they pupate inside for about 4 weeks. In September or October the males emerge from their sacks as moth-like insects and visit the females in their sacks to mate. Afterwards the females can lay 500+ eggs in their sacks.
Control
For small infestations, manually pick off the bags. Be sure to dispose of these pests by sealing them in plastic bags and throwing them in the garbage, or soaking them in water to drown the insects.
For heavily infested plants, bagworms are easiest to control when they are out of their sacks and actively feeding. A yearly tree & shrub drench (Bonide or Bioadvanced) can be applied in March just before the tree begins to bud, or just after flowering for trees that are pollinated by insects. Otherwise spray regularly every 3-4 weeks starting around mid-June with a product labelled for bagworms.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are an invasive insect with no natural predators in the United States. They feed indiscriminately on hundreds of species of plants, feeding in groups with a devastating effect on landscape. The beetles will eat the tissue in between leaf veins, leaving only the leaf skeleton remaining.
Life Cycle
Adult beetles lay their eggs in the soil during the summer, which hatch into grubs that live in the soil for 10 months, feeding and growing. They emerge from the soil as adults the following June, feeding in groups for the next 40 days.
Control
Using grub control on the lawn in early summer will help reduce the number of adults later in the summer. To prevent infestations on row crops, use a row cover for the adult feeding period: 6-8 weeks from late June to early August. The most effective method of control for small infestations is manually picking the insects off of plants and drowning them in a bucket of soapy water. For heavily infested plants, treat with Neem Oil, which will be ingested by the beetle and passed on to its larvae, causing them to die before maturing. The product will need to be reapplied after rainfall or overhead irrigation. Because the chemical needs to be ingested to be effective, this is the safest product to use on flowering plants to protect pollinator populations.
Pruning Clematis
There are three different pruning types for clematis, depending on where the flower buds form. Buds that grow on old wood will form in the fall. Buds that grow on new wood will emerge with the new spring growth. There are some varieties that produce buds on both old and new wood. Incorrect pruning rarely damages clematis, the worst that will happen is loss of flowers for a growing season. For the best display of blossoms determine when your clematis blooms and prune accordingly:
Group 1: Blooms on Old Wood
These are typically the varieties that are the earliest to flower in the spring. This group doesn’t need a lot of pruning, just trim lightly to remove dead stems. It’s ok to take old, tangled plants down to the base of the wood to rejuvenate them. Do this just after flowering finishes in the spring so the plants have time to regrow during the summer.
Group 2: Blooms on Old and New Wood
These varieties usually flower profusely in the spring, followed by rebloom in late summer or fall. Lightly prune weak or dead stems back to a healthy set of buds, clearing out tangles after the spring flush of flowers is done. Old, tangled plants can occasionally be cut back by a third or more to reinvigorate the plant, but doing this will compromise the flowering the next season. Large and double flowers will bloom on older wood.
Group 3: Blooms on New Wood
These clematis are usually summer or fall bloomers. Cut these varieties down to 8-12″ from the ground in late winter. New shoots will emerge from the crown of the plant in the spring, loaded with flower buds.
Pruning Hydrangeas
Bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood, which means pruning in the fall or early spring will destroy the next season’s flowers. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood that develops in the spring, producing buds in the same season the flowers appear. For all hydrangeas, its best to let them grow the first couple of years without pruning. When you do prune, cut them back to 18 inches from the ground.
Bigleaf Hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)
Prune these varieties after the flowers fade in the summer. Buds for next year’s flowers will form in the fall, so avoid pruning later than August 1st. Dead wood can be cut away in the fall or very early spring. If your plant has been neglected, it’s ok to prune all the stems to the base of the plant. If you do this, you’ll lose the blossoms for the year, but your plant will be rejuvenated and healthier. If you’ve had trouble with blooms on these varieties, try a mountain hybrid (H. serrata) which blooms on both new and old wood and may be a more reliable bloomer.
Oakleaf Hydrangeas (H. quercifolia)
These varieties are known for their hardiness, oak-shaped leaves, and beautiful burgundy fall color. Flowers deepen in color and last on the stems all winter. These varieties don’t need to be pruned, except for broken, crossing, or damaged branches.
Panicle Hydrangeas (H. paniculata)
Panicle hydrangeas have giant, cone-shaped blossoms. If needed, prune broken, crossing, or damaged branches in late winter, before the new growth occurs in the spring. Avoid pruning to shape the plant. Flowers are reliable year after year, and don’t need special pruning to bloom.
Smooth Hydrangeas (H. arborescens)
These are commonly called “Snowball Hydrangeas,” with big white pom-pom flowers. Prune 12 to 18 inches from the ground in late winter.
Roses
Spring & Summer Care
Fertilize three times per year: in early spring after pruning, during the first bloom period, and in mid to late July. Do not fertilize later than July. Deadhead regularly to encourage repeat blooming. On new roses, deadhead to the closest 3-leaflet leaf, on established roses deadhead to the closest 5-leaflet leaf.
Fall & Winter Care
Water roses until the ground freezes by soaking the plants every 2-3 weeks. Remove leaves from around the base of the plant to prevent diseases from overwintering in the debris. Prune broken, damaged, or diseased canes. Mulch with dry leaves, grass clippings, or chopped straw to a height of 8-10 inches around sensitive varieties to protect the plant from winter temperature fluctuations after the weather cools and the rose goes dormant. Rose collars can be used to keep the material in place.
Selecting a Variety
Hybrid Tea
Large blossoms on upright canes used for cut flowers.
Prune dead, diseased, or crossing branches in early spring. Cut the oldest stems to the ground. Protect with mulch to the graft point in the winter.
Floribunda
Small, elegant flowers resemble hybrid tea blossoms but bloom in showy clusters.
Cut back by a third in early spring, and prune dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Protect with mulch to the graft point in the winter.
Grandiflora
A cross between floribunda and hybrid tea, with large blossoms in clusters. Plants tend to grow taller than other roses.
Prune overcrowded or dead wood in early spring. Protect with mulch to the graft point in the winter.
Climbing
These varieties are floriferous and can be trained up trellises and pillars.
Trim back to structural canes in early spring.
Shrub
Hardy and easy-care
Cut back by a third in early spring. Reblooms well without deadheading.
Spring Flowering Bulbs
These instructions can be followed for spring-flowering bulbs, bare root peonies, and rhizomes planted in the fall.
Siting & Planting
Select a location with full sun to light shade and good drainage. Planting bulbs behind existing perennials allows the bulbs to stand out early in the spring when they’re blooming, and as the perennials emerge, they will conceal the dying foliage of the bulbs later in the spring and summer.
Spring-flowering bulbs need a cold dormant period in order to flower. Plant in mid to late October when the weather cools but before the ground freezes. Dig a trench or hole at a depth three times the height of the bulb. Sprinkle bone meal in the bottom of the hold, place the bulb on top pointed-side up, cover with soil, and water in. Bulbs can be placed a couple of inches apart in clusters for better impact. Some bulbs, like narcissus, crocus, scilla, snowdrops, and grape hyacinths will naturalize, spreading by producing more bulbs. Mulch to insulate from winter temperature fluctuations and to conserve soil moisture. If squirrels are a problem, lay chicken wire or fine netting on top of the soil for the winter.
Care
Leave foliage intact until the leaves and stem turn yellow and die back on their own. The foliage is essential for feeding the bulb for a strong display of flowers next spring. Deadhead tulips before the seedpod develops so the plant’s energy is used in the bulb rather than in seed production. Top dress with compost early in the summer to add nutrients.
Bare Root Peonies:
Plant in late August through October. Eyes should face up and be no deeper than 2″ under the soil surface. Peonies planted too deeply will not bloom.
Iris Rhizomes
Plant early in the fall when night temperatures are still around 40-50 degrees to give them time to root in. Plant the rhizome horizontally with the top exposed.
Asparagus
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Asparagus takes several years to mature into edible spears, but once it matures, it will mature for years to come. We recommend planting 1-year crowns rather than seeds, which gives you a year’s head start on your crop. Ten plants should produce enough for one to two people each season.
Asparagus prefer light soils with good drainage that warm up early in the spring, making raised beds a good choice.
Dig trenches 12″ wide and 8-10″ deep. Spread compost or manure over the bottom of the trench and cover with soil. Set the crowns 18″ apart and spread the roots out flat. Cover with 2″ of soil. As new shoots appear, gradually fill the trench. By midsummer the trench should be filled to the soil level. Mulch to control weeds and conserve moisture. Water and weed regularly for the first year or two. Old brown top growth can be cut to the ground in early spring.
>Watch for asparagus beetles, spray with insecticidal soap if needed.
Harvesting
Do not harvest during the first two years while the plants are establishing their roots. During the third season, pick the spears over a four-week period beginning in early spring. The next year, extend the season to eight weeks. Cut spears with a sharp knife at or just below the soil level.
Blueberries
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Blueberries grow best in moist, well-drained, acid soils high in organic material. Most soils in this area will need to be amended with compost to add organic material, and peat moss, pine needle mulch, or soil sulfur for acidity. An acidic fertilizer may be required while these materials decompose into the soil. Plant in full sun and mulch heavily to keep shallow roots watered. Two or more varieties planted together will result in the biggest yield.
Blueberries can start to loose their productivity without regular pruning. Canes more than seven years old should be pruned out each year during the winter while the plant is still dormant. Diseased, broken, or crossing branches should also be pruned. Opening up the center of the plant to allow sunlight and air in will help prevent disease.
Harvesting
Blueberries will ripen for 6-8 weeks beginning in July. Berries should easily pull away from the plant when they are ripe. Use bird netting or chicken wire coverings to protect your harvest from wildlife.
Citrus
Tropical
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Protect From Frost
Planting & Care
Citrus thrives with 6-8 hours of direct sun. During the winter, at least 4 hours will keep the plant healthy enough to produce the next summer. If plants are moved outside in the summer, gradually increase time in direct sun to allow the plant to adjust.
Plants should be kept at 60-70 degrees in the winter and 65-80 degrees in the summer. Dramatic temperature changes can result in leaf drop, but the plant should recover once it becomes acclimated.
Fertilizer every 3-4 weeks in the summer and every 2-3 months in the winter.
Plant in a well-drained potting mix with perlite to prevent over watering. Keep soil consistently moist but not too wet. Allow top inch of soil to dry out during the winter to prevent fungal growth. Mist weekly to provide humidity in dry homes during the winter.
Common Problems
If the plant doesn’t bloom, it could be a sign of the pot being too big or over or under fertilizing. If flowers drop without developing fruit, mist or place a humidifier close to the plant. If branches droop as fruit develops, prune back leggy branches to strengthen. Watch for curled, speckled, or yellow leaves as signs of pest infestations.
Fruit Trees
Hardy Trees
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Fruit trees have some pest and disease problems associated with them. Many new hybrids have better resistance to diseases than older varieties, and cultural practices combined with a well-suited site can help prevent problems. In some cases, a regular spraying schedule will need to be adopted to produce a healthy crop of fruit.
Cultural Practices
Regular pruning is an important maintenance practice to thin branches in the tree canopy for good air circulation and to make the remaining branches stronger to better support the fruit yield. Pruning also helps prevent pest and disease problems. In late winter, remove damaged or diseased branches, rubbing branches, suckers from the base of the trunk, and watersprouts (branches that grow upright and clutter the center of the trees). Excessive pruning on apple trees can cause more watersprouts, so prune lightly one to two times a year. Once those problems are addressed, prune for aesthetic value. At the end of the season, avoid leaving fruit or old leaves decaying around the base of the tree, this can cause disease and insect infestations. Do not use them as compost!
Spray Schedule
Some gardeners establish a spraying schedule for their fruit trees if there has been a history of disease or insect infestation. The following is a general schedule, be sure to read all labels before using any chemical to prevent damage to your tree or the surrounding environment.
Winter Dormancy
Use a dormant oil in February or March before the tree buds out to prevent damage from scale and spider mites overwintering in the bark of the tree.
Early Spring
We recommend using Bonide Fruit Tree & Plant Guard, which controls a wide range of fungal diseases as well as insects like mites, aphids, and scale. Begin treatment with one application when flower buds are visible but still in tight clusters.
After Flowering
After the petals have fallen from the tree, spray again. Applications can be repeated every 10-14 days throughout the summer. Read the label carefully to determine the proper spraying schedule and the pre-harvest interval. The pre-harvest interval will tell you how long you need to wait between the final application of the product and harvest.
Garlic
Perennial, but usually grown as an annual
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Plant in the fall after the first frost, or as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Break bulbs apart into individual cloves and let them sit for a few days in their papery husks before planting. Plant cloves 2 inches deep and 4 inches apart, pointy side up.
Water regularly in the spring, trimming back any flower stalks that appear to preserve the flavor of the bulb. These “scapes” are edible!
Harvesting & Storage
Harvest when tops begin to turn yellow and fall over. To cure, hang them so the bulbs get plenty of air circulation. Keep the curing bulbs out of the sun. When the husks are dry and papery and the root crown is hard, they’re ready to be stored. Clean off any soil and store in a cool, dark, dry place. Tops can be trimmed or braided together to hang. Flavor will improve with age.
Grapes
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Pruning
First Growing Season
Do not prune, let the plant establish and develop.
First Dormant Season
Choose the strongest shoot and trim the others down to the base of the plant.
Second Growing Season
Tie the shoot to a support stake and continue to support it until it can be tied to the top wire of a two-wire trellis. Then cut the top to encourage branching.
Second Dormant Season
Summer growth should have produced side shoots. Pick the four best lateral shoots and tie them to the trellis wires. Trim them back to 6-8 buds from the original shoot. These will produce fruit this summer.
Horseradish
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Plants can grow up to 18″ wide and spread freely, so give them plenty of space or consider planting in a deep container. As soon as the ground is thawed enough to work in the spring, dig a whole twice as deep as the root is long and backfill with loose soil and compost. This will create loose soil around the deep tap root.
Plant the root at a 45 degree angle with the tip about a half inch below the surface of the soil.
Keep the soil moist until sprouts appear. Once the plant develops several sets of leaves, our regular rainfall should be enough for it. In drought periods, water occasionally.
Use only a low nitrogen fertilizer when necessary, compost is preferable.
Harvesting & Processing
Harvest after first frost in the fall for the best flavor. As long as some root pieces are left in the ground, it will regrow as a perennial next year.
To process, grate roots and freeze or soak in cold water to prevent discoloration. Drain and mix with vinegar. Be sure to process in a well ventilated area, the fumes are potent and will burn your eyes and nose! This prepared horseradish can be stored for 6 weeks.
Onions
Perennial, but usually grown as an annual
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
For spring planting, select sets for green tops and smaller bulbs or plants for larger bulbs.
.Plant into loose soil as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. If you’re planting sets, bury the bulb halfway into the soil. Water and fertilize regularly with a low nitrogen fertilizer until the bulb has enlarged at the soil surface. If flower stalks emerge, cut them before they open. Once an onion flowers, it has “bolted” and will not be good for eating.
Harvesting & Storage
When tops yellow and flop over in late summer, they are ready to be dried. Pull them gently and allow them to cure for several weeks before braiding or trimming the tops for storage in a cool, dark, dry place.
Potatoes
Perennial, but usually grown as an annual
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Cut the potato into chunks so that there are at least two good eyes in each piece. Let the cut pieces dry for several days before planting.
Plant the pieces with the eye facing up four inches deep, 12 inches apart. Rows should be 24 inches apart. Fertilize or compost in bands beside the rows.
When plants are five to six inches high, mound soil from between rows into hills that cover the stems up to the lower leaves.
Water regularly. Under watering will cause hollow tubers.
Harvesting & Storage
New potatoes are ready for harvest as soon as the plant flowers. For full-size potatoes, harvest when tops yellow and die back. Store in a dark, dry place.
Raspberries
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Raspberries are easy to grow and long lived. There are two groups of raspberries: summer bearing product one crop per season, everbearing produce in the summer and fall.
Planting & Care
Plant three feet apart in early spring in a bed prepared with compost or manure. Water well (one inch per week) while the plant is getting established, and from flowering to harvest. Underwatering will result in small, seedy berries. Mulch well to discourage weeds and retain moisture.
Clean up any debris in the fall, this provides shelter for overwintering diseases and pests.
Fertilize established plants in early spring before new growth, do not fertilize in late spring or summer.
Pruning
Summer Bearing
Second year canes will fruit on these varieties. Cut back the oldest canes after fruiting has finished, leaving this year’s growth for next year’s fruiting. Supports should not be needed when the plant is well pruned.
Everbearing
These varieties don’t need any special pruning, just trim out any dead or broken branches, and thin out occasionally. Supports shouldn’t be needed on these smaller plants.
Harvesting & Storage
Berries will ripen over a two-week period. Pick berries every couple of days, gently pulling on each berry. They should come off the plant easily.
Rhubarb
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Rhubarb is a perennial that grows well in our Nebraska climate. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil, or build a raised bed. Rhubarb plants require lots of nutrients, so work compost or manure into the soil before planting. Young plants are sensitive to nitrates in fertilizers, so avoid using chemical fertilizers during the first year.
Plant in early spring 18-30 inches apart, with the crown an inch below the surface of the soil. Keep the plant well-watered.
Divide plants every three to four years when they’re dormant in late fall or early spring. Add compost in the fall to provide the plant with food for the spring.
Harvesting
Do not remove any stalks the first year so the plant can work on establishing its roots. Remove any flower stalks that appear. Stalks are ready to be harvested when they’re 12-18 inches tall by cutting them at the base of the plant. Leave at least two stalks attached to the crown to continue production. If stalks become thin, add organic material to feed the plant. Don’t eat the leaves, they’re poisonous!
Salad Greens
Annual
Full to Part Sun
Cool Weather Crop
Planting & Care
Temperatures between 46-65 degrees are ideal for salad greens, but seedlings can tolerate light frost. Plants bolt in warm weather, so plant early in the spring or fall for the longest growing period. Plant larger crops like broccoli around greens to shade them and keep them cool longer into the season. Amend soils with compost and use a high-nitrogen fertilizer if necessary.
Plant seeds half an inch deep. Space leaf lettuces 4 inches apart, loose headed lettuces 8 inches apart, and firm headed lettuces 16 inches apart. Planting a small section of your row each week in the spring will result in a continuous harvest.
Water lightly and regularly to keep seedling moist and produce the best crop. Chive and garlic can be planted with salad greens to repel common pests.
Harvesting
Lettuces become more bitter as they are exposed to sun and heat during the day, so harvest in the morning when temperatures are cooler.
Leafy lettuces and spinach can be harvested as baby greens or allowed to grow to maturity. Plants will continue to grow after they are trimmed until they start to bolt. As the days grow warmer and with each trimming the plants will become more bitter and woody. Head lettuces can be harvested when the center is firm.
Rinse greens twice and dry thoroughly to increase storage time.
Strawberries
Perennial
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Plant after threat of frost has passed in a sunny area with good drainage, and mix compost into the soil. Use edging to contain runners into their designated area. Choose a June bearing variety for a big harvest early in the season, or everbearing for a steady harvest throughout the spring and summer.
Avoid planting strawberries in areas previously occupied by tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants. Strawberry plants decrease in vigor after a few years, so start with fresh, healthy plants after four or five years. Mulch to keep fruits off the soil and conserve moisture. Early blossoms can be covered with mulch or row cover to protect against spring frosts.
Matted Row System
Plant 18 inches apart, with 3 to 4 feet in between rows. Runners are allowed to grow, producing a mat 2 to 3 feet wide the length of the row. You can skip planting every other row space, plant the empty spaces the next spring, and allow the runners to fill in the space.
Hill System
Set plants in a hill 12 inches apart with 12 inches between rows. Dig a V-shaped hole 8 inches deep, spread the roots, and fill in the soil so the crown rests above the soil level. Pick off runners to allow the plant to put all of its energy into producing fruit. There’s a lot more maintenance with this method, but it produces larger berries.
Sweet Potatoes
Annual
Full to Part Sun
Good Drainage
Planting & Care
Plant in full sun, though some afternoon shade is ok. Plant in May when the weather has warmed for the season in raised rows about 8 inches high to improve drainage. Space 12-18 inches in rows 3-4 inches apart.
Don’t over-feed sweet potatoes. Mix compost into the rows before planting, but don’t fertilize during the growing season. Keep the rows weed-free early in the season. Water well during dry spells.
Harvesting & Storage
Stop watering 3-4 weeks before harvest to reduce splitting in the tubers. When the foliage begins to yellow, the tubers are ready to dig. The skin of a sweet potato is tender and easily damaged, so be gentle when pulling them up.
Cure the tubers in a warm (around 80 degrees), shady spot for a week or two. Don’t let the potatoes touch each other during this time. After curing, wrap in newspaper and pack them in a box and store in a cool place for up to six months.
Tomatoes
Annual
Full Sun
Good Drainage
Planting
Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of direct sun for the best production. They prefer well-drained soil amended with compost. Don’t plant them in the same spot each year, that will invite pests and fungal problems. Rotate crops by nutrient demand: plant them where beans and peas were grown last year, avoid areas where potatoes, eggplants, or peppers were in the last growing season.
Start seeds inside or transplant a seedling grown at a nursery. Let the plant acclimate to being outside by slowly increasing its exposure to direct sun. Plant outside after last frost. Pull off lower leaves and plant deeper in the soil. If evening temperatures drop, a plastic bottle can serve as a make-shift greenhouse.
Basil helps enhance the flavor of tomatoes, and can also repel insects. They share soil nutrients without reducing yields. Other beneficial companions are marigolds, cosmos, nasturtium, chives, garlic, lemon balm, onion, parsley, sage, and mint.
Care
Control growth pattern and increase air flow to indeterminate varieties by removing suckers and side branches while tying the main stem to your staking system. Tie up fruiting branches for extra support. Do not remove side branches on determinate varieties.
Tomatoes need an inch of water each week during the spring and up to 2 inches per week during peak production. Water deeply during the establishment period to encourage strong root development. Water at the base of the plant, overhead watering increases the risk of fungal diseases. A light shredded mulch or grass clippings help retain moisture and keep soil temperature consistent.
A high-nitrogen fertilizer will help stem and leaf development early in the season. Begin to apply phosphorous and potassium heavy fertilizers in mid-season to encourage blossoming and fruit production. High nitrogen at that time will result in less production. Fertilizers labelled for tomatoes usually have calcium and other micronutrients tomatoes need. A foliar spray of 2 tablespoons magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) diluted in a gallon of water once a month can also help increase fruit yields.
Harvest
Harvest at full ripeness if possible, but pink tomatoes will ripen indoors at room temperature without much loss in flavor. Store at room temperature when fully ripe. Temperatures below 50 degrees will negatively impact flavor.
Common Problems on Tomatoes
Blossom End Rot
Brown rotten spots on the bottom of the fruit.
Develops from inconsistent watering and warm weather early in the growing season. Mulch plants, ensure consistent water supply, and supplement with calcium.
Leaf Blight
Yellowing or dying leaves early in the season or during fruiting period.
Caused by humid conditions, overcrowding, and overhead watering. Pull off affected leaves before it spreads to the whole plant. Water plants early in the morning using drip irrigation or with a hose directed at the base of the plant. Space plants properly and practice crop rotation.
Magnesium Deficiency
Lower leaves turn pale green to yellow, spreading gradually to the whole plant and stunting fruit development.
Tends to affect plants more in cool, wet conditions. Water consistently and use a foliar spray of 2 tablespoons of magnesium sulfate diluted in a gallon of water once a month until environmental conditions improve to help the plant take up nutrients more efficiently.
Tomato Hornworm
Holes chewed in leaves and fruit.
Check under the leaves for a large caterpillar with white diagonal stripes and a black horn. Pluck off the plant by hand and drown in soapy water.
Inconsistent Watering
Cracking fruit
Ensure the plant is getting consistent water each week, taking into account rainfall and supplemental watering.
Houseplant Care
Light
Low light: filtered, indirect near a north or east window, or a window shaded by a tree or building.
Bright indirect light: a window with good bright light in the room, but the plant isn’t sitting directly in the window.
Bright light: at least 4-6 hours of direct, bright light without shade from trees or curtains.
Soil & Repotting
When repotting, choose a pot 2 inches larger in diameter than the current pot. Too much extra soil will retain water and lead to rot. Some plants prefer to be root bound, while others want plenty of room to grow. If the pot doesn’t have drainage holes, fill the bottom with a few inches of gravel to give excess water a place to drain out of the potting soil.
Use an all-purpose indoor potting mix made up of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. Garden or top soil is too heavy for potted plants and can lead to disease and pest problems. To avoid mineral buildup and pest infestation, refresh soil every couple of years.
Fertilizer
Fertilize once a month from spring through early fall, then cut back during the winter to give plants a rest period. Use an all-purpose fertilizer labelled for houseplants. If leaves start to yellow but veins remain green it could be a sign of a magnesium or sulfate deficiency, so try sprinkling one teaspoon of magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) per foot height of the plant directly onto the soil and water in.
Watering
Most tropical houseplants should be watered thoroughly every 7-10 days, ferns at least once or twice weekly, and succulents bi-weekly at most. Timing will vary depending on the size of the pot and the temperature and humidity of the room. Plants receiving more sunlight and heat will also require more water. Usually plants will need less water during the winter when changes in sunlight trigger a rest period with less vigorous growth. Misting leaves during this period can provide much needed humidity in dry winter homes.
Before watering, test the soil by sticking a finger two inches into the soil. If the soil feels moist, wait a few days and test it again. If the soil is dry, add water.
Add enough water so it percolates through the entire root zone of the plant. If the pot has drainage holes, water slowly until you see water coming out of the bottom of the pot. Pots without drainage holes may take some trial and error to find the right amount to thoroughly water roots without drowning the plant. Start slow and add water as needed, plants rebound from under-watering better than overwatering. Watch for yellowing leaves as a sign of overwatering, and brown, crunchy leaves when a plant is too dry.
Amaryllis
Bright indirect light
Well drained soil
Amaryllis are some of our favorite winter plants. The giant, long-lasting flowers add life to holiday mantles and tablescapes. Watching the flower’s stalk slowly emerge from the bulb and form a velvety blossom can brighten up the dreary post-holiday winter months.
Gettin g Started
Choose a pot that allows the amaryllis to be surrounded by at least an inch of soil. Soak the bulb and its roots in lukewarm water overnight to jump start growth. Then, plant the bulb so the top third is visible above the soil. Give it a good soak, then allow the soil to dry out until the bud and stalk emerge. Then begin watering whenever the soil feels dry to the touch. A warm, sunny location will help the stalk grow properly.
Amaryllis can also be forced in water. Layer stones or marbles in a vase and rest the bulb. Fill the vase so that the bottom of the bulb is just barely touching water. This will wake up the roots and encourage them to work down into the water. If the bulb is submerged too deeply it will rot.
Flowering Period
On average, it takes 6-8 weeks for amaryllis to flower after potting. When the bud begins to show color, move the plant out of direct sunlight to extend bloom time. The blooms typically last about a month. Flowers can be removed as they fade. When all the flowers on a stalk fade, cut it back to the base of the bulb, sometimes another flower stalk will emerge. Older, larger bulbs generally produce more flowers.
Rebloom
Amaryllis will develop leaves after flowering. They can be treated as houseplants through the spring and summer, kept either in a sunny window or a partially sunny spot outside. In late summer, stop watering the plant and let the leaves fade away. The bulb can then be stored in a cool (50 degrees), dark place for an 8-12 week “winter.” After this dormant period, bring the plant back into warmth and sunlight to restart the blooming cycle.
Bromeliads
Bright indirect light
Well drained soil
High humidity
Bromeliads are native to the rainforests of South America. The “blooms” are actually colorful bracts. They absorb moisture and nutrients from the air through tiny leaf scales. Their rosettes form a reservoir to hold water and the rotting leaves and debris that serve as a fertilizer in their natural environment.
Environment
Bromeliads love a moderately moist environment where they receive direct light for half a day. Their root systems are small so plant them in small pots using an orchid potting mix or mount them onto wood or stones, wrapping the roots in sphagnum moss to hold moisture. Mist leaves and keep the reservoir at the base of their leaves filled. Dampen the soil only when it becomes very dry. Avoid oil-based leaf shine, this interferes with their ability to take in water and nutrients.
Propagation
The colorful bracts will last for several weeks to several months. When the color fades, the bromeliad slowly dies, but it sends up several “pups” to reproduce. When the pups are a third the size of the parent plant they can be cut away and replanted. Be patient, it takes three to five years for them to show color! Feed regularly in the summer at half strength, spraying the fertilizer solution onto leaves and the reservoir.
Christmas Cactus
Bright indirect light
Evenly moist soil
Mild temperatures
Environment
Christmas cacti prefer humid conditions and richer soils than most cacti, rather than desert-dry conditions, so plant in a high-quality, all-purpose potting medium and mist regularly. They perform best with consistent temperatures around 65-70 degrees, evenly moist soil, and bright, indirect sunlight.
Stimulating Blooms
Stimulate blooming by reducing soil moisture and moving the plant to a cool (55-60 degree) area with 14 hours of complete darkness (including lamps and street lights outside a window) followed by 10 hours of sunlight for about 6 weeks. Use a high-phosphorus fertilizer (the middle number of the three on a fertilizer formula label) as directed when buds form.
Cyclamen
Bright indirect light
Evenly moist soil
Mild temperatures
Cyclamen are long-blooming, easy to grow plants that add color to winter homes. With a little extra care, they make beautiful houseplants all year.
Environment
Cyclamen prefer temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees. Keep the plants away from drafty windows and doors, and heating vents. They bloom best in bright, indirect light. Water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Water from the outside rim of the pot, not in the center of the plant or over the foliage. Fertilize every two weeks with a high-phosphorus fertilizer for sustained blooming.
Flowering Period
Multiple buds will shoot up from the center of the cyclamen. As the flowers fade, pinch them off at the crown of the plant and new buds will grow up to replace them. Cyclamen usually bloom from mid-autumn to early spring.
Rebloom
When blooming slows in the spring and the foliage dies down, keep the tubers in the pot in a cool dry spot and let the soil dry out. In mid-summer, re-pot the tuber with new soil, water and place in a warm spot to encourage root growth. As the plant grows, gradually return it to a cooler environment to encourage blooming in the late fall.
Ferns
Low light
Evenly moist soil
High humidity
Environment
Ferns are easy to grow with adequate moisture. Use a peat-based potting mix or amend a mix with sphagnum peat moss to hold water. Maintain humidity by misting plants regularly or setting them on trays with damp pebbles. Avoid placing ferns in hot, sunny windows or near heat sources. Ferns grow best with lower levels of light and many species can thrive with only fluorescent lighting.
Care
Water weekly indoors, or daily outside in the heat of the summer. Use an all-purpose fertilizer at half strength monthly during the spring and summer. In the winter feed only every other month or stop fertilizing. If foliage turns yellow, apply magnesium sulfate (Epsom salt) with a solution of 2 tablespoons per one gallon of water soaked into the soil.
Repot in the spring when the plant is developing new growth. To control the size of larger ferns, prune off a quarter of the roots and repot with fresh soil.
Fern fronds are sensitive, so don’t use leafshine or other oils to clean them. Remove pests by washing the leaves with water, picking insects off by hand, or using a systemic pesticide rather than a spray.
Orchids
Bright indirect light
Well drained soil
High humidity
In their native tropical environment, orchids grow attached to tree canopies or rocks than in the soil. An orchid potting mix made of bark and charcoal will help the orchid feel at home, letting water wash over its roots and allowing for good air circulation. There are over 30,000 different varieties of orchids all around the planet, but the most common types we have in our homes are Phalaenopsis, Oncidium, and Dendrobium.
Care
Orchids prefer bright, indirect light. Keep them away from sunny windowsills. The best way to water is to soak the plant thoroughly in your sink, and let it drain completely. Never leave the plant sitting in water. This can be done up to once a week when it’s warm, or every couple of weeks when it’s cooler. If you notice yellowing of the leaves, reduce watering.
Bloom
Orchid flowers can last for months. When all the blossoms drop off the flower stalk, trim the stalk back to its base. Often, a new flower stalk will emerge. Fertilize with a high-phosphorus (the middle of the three numbers on a fertilizer formula) orchid fertilizer according to the directions on the label, or a high-phosphorus all-purpose fertilizer at half strength. After the orchid has finished blooming, switch to a balanced fertilizer (the three numbers are the same or close to the same) until you notice a new flower stalk emerging. Generally, orchids bloom once a year.
Succulents
Bright light
Well drained soil
Low humidity
Environment
Succulents and cacti need at least 6 hours of bright, direct sunlight during the spring, summer, and fall. They can survive the winter with 4 hours of sun. If plants are moved outside in the spring and inside in the fall, allow the plant to gradually adjust to changing light and temperatures to avoid shock. Plant in a shallow pot with good drainage using a rocky cactus potting mix or amend a regular mix with rock or perlite.
Care
Water every 2-3 weeks during the spring and summer, weekly if the plant is outside in full sun. Reduce to every 4-6 weeks during the winter. Succulents will begin to shrivel if they aren’t getting enough water. If this happens rehydrate slowly 2-3 times rather than soaking all at once. Use a cactus fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer only.
Propagation
Propagate during the active growth period in the spring and summer. Use a clean knife to cut a “pup” (a small offshoot of the plant) away from the parent plant. Allow the cut to callus in a dry spot for a few days, then place on top of lightly dampened soil. Mist the soil to keep it moist but not wet. New roots should develop within a month. Wait a few weeks after the roots appear before repotting.
Transitioning Plant Environments
When transitioning plants outside in the spring or inside in the fall, allow them to slowly adjust to their environment. Drastic changes to temperature, light, or watering habits can cause shock. Mist plants when moving them inside to allow them to adjust to changes in humidity levels. Tropical plants can thrive outside with low temperatures down to 50 degrees. Leaves may drop as the plant adjusts. Continue the transition process and monitor for insect damage, the plant should recover soon.
Overwintering Tropicals
When bringing plants inside for the winter, treat soil and plant with insecticidal soap or systemic insecticide a week before the transition. Existing pest problems can worsen indoors and spread to other houseplants. Tropical plants overwinter well with 4-6 hours of bright indirect light in the winter. Supplement with a grow light if necessary. If you’re letting plants go dormant, store at 40-50 degrees with little to no light until the leaves turn yellow and drop. Store in an unheated, but not freezing basement or garage and water about every 2 weeks to keep from drying out.
